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Work day
Tue, Oct 1, 2024
(0 miles)

Today’s a work day, so most of it was spent in my hotel room on wifi. With the two hour time difference from home, I was up very early, but managed to hang out in bed until 05:30 local time. First order of business: wash the LD comforts. Always be ready to ride (and give them time to dry out)!

The hotel had a larger-than-average breakfast spread with several fresh options.  I stuck with a basic eggs/bacon/waffle combo along with a few cups of coffee to jumpstart me right into logging on to get some work done.

While working throughout the day, I kept occasional tabs on Facebook and reached out to my friend Wolfe about meeting for a bite to eat locally. Now, he’s from Ontario not Denver, but this is not at all unusual for two long distance riders, to meet up randomly two thousand miles from either one’s home! His bike had broken down during a trip out here to the Western states, delaying his return home. Having gotten an automotive oil cooler frankenstein’ed somehow onto his old BMW motorcycle, he’d be passing through the Denver area today. We messaged about possibly meeting up for dinner at Chubby’s, a drive-in chain that had popped up in my search results for local faves in the Denver area (they also serve Mexican hamburgers btw). Alas, the scheduling and his routing weren’t going to work out, so the meetup never materialized. 🙁

By the time I wrapped up work for the day, it was rush hour again. I didn’t feel like riding into city traffic to dine alone at Chubby’s, but maybe I’ll get a chance to try it out over the next couple days. Instead, I decided on a nearby pizza place called Marco’s Coal Fired, selling smaller sized “Neapolitan-style” pies. It was a nice mile-long walk round-trip to retrieve the food. I was happy to get out of the room and outside, even if it was mostly walking past office buildings, hotels, and apartment complexes. Across from the hotel, there’s a pretty nice view across I-25 of the nearby Rocky Mountains jutting up like a wall a few miles west of the metro area, reminding me where I was.

The two pies I ordered were a bit bigger than I’d envisioned, so I sampled some of both (sausage & onion, and a margherita). It’s pizza so you can’t go too wrong, and they were fine though not cooked well-done as requested. I’d also splurged on a chocolate-chip cannoli (this is sort of a vacation right?). While it was freshly made, it didn’t hold a candle to Mike’s or Modern in Boston’s North End. 🤘

 

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Loop out of Denver
Wed, Oct 2, 2024
(~150 miles)

Starting to acclimate to the time change, I slept soundly until 06:00 this morning. Today I’m supposed to meet my work colleagues at the communal AirBnB we have booked in downtown Denver, but check-in isn’t until after 15;00, so I have most of the day for myself. Having requested a late check-out, at first I’d figured on doing some route planning for the latter part of this trip. Then I thought, what the hell I’m here in Denver now with a bright sunny day ahead of me…. I need to make the most of it and get out to enjoy those mountains!

Before switching the trip itinerary to Texas, I’d had a whole week’s worth of riding mapped out for Colorado. From some of those routes, I quickly assembled a shorter loop ride west of the city that would finish up late afternoon back at my new downtown accommodations. After another decent breakfast from the hotel (biscuits and gravy), I got everything packed back up on the bike in time for a 09:15 check-out and departure.

After another quick couple snaps of those alluring mountains in the distance (where I’ll be riding shortly), I wound my way out to the business park to the highway. I continued on the 470 loop, circling to the southwest under beautiful fair-weather skies. Exiting in Ken Caryl, I picked up Deer Creek Canyon Road, which I’d chosen randomly as a connector due to its squiggly-ness, and quickly  found myself out of urbania and ascending west in a beautiful short canyon through rugged park lands for a several miles. I knew I’d picked a good one, or maybe there’s just no bad roads around here?

I followed the road as it turned north, then joined Turkey Creek Road for a bit to the busier US 285. That looped me quickly back down to the east into Morrison, losing what I’d just gained in elevation. Turning on CO 8, I immediately spotted a striking adobe fortress-looking structure off the road to my right. I had to pull a uey to go back and investigate.

Turns out The Fort is an historic restaurant with an interesting history. Built in the 1960s at the foot of a tall red rock cliff, they have a unique and interesting menu, with lots of bison and other Western-inspired dishes available. Of course, I only learned about all this later while following up on my curiosity about the place. If I’d known at the time, I may have made it a point to come here last night for dinner! Pricey eating, but seems like the kind of local-inspired cuisine I would love to sample while traveling. I’ll be back here for sure.

After turning west again on Bear Creek Road in Morrison proper, the road curves up along some pretty rock cliffs and I spotted the sign for Red Rocks Park and Amphitheatre. Hmm, that sounds interesting and there doesn’t seem to be a gate or anything at the entrance…  let’s check this out!

As I started up the driveway through some desert scrub, the first towering rock cliff and ledge formations came into view and I realized I was in for a treat. After snapping a couple shots, I checked the GPS map, which shows a small loop road going through the park so, not knowing if the entire thing was for vehicles or not, I decided to find out.

I continued up along a windy little paved lane through the chaparral, framed by more red-hued rock boulders, ledges and towers. It was beautiful, and I couldn’t believe there was no entrance fee to get in here! We easterners are easily impressed with red-rock stuff, especially on the first days of a trip to the West, but it was pretty.

The ST climbed up the mountain side via a few wide switchbacks until reaching a couple large parking lots. They appeared to be purposed for crowds attending the commercial outdoor concert venue here. Built in the 1930s by the CCC, the 9500-person capacity open-air performance space takes advantage of a natural rock amphitheater formed within the rock cliffs. I’d never heard of this place before, but it’s apparently a famous live concert venue for major acts as well as hosting a lot of more community-based events. It’s really cool that they allow the public in to enjoy the space when nothing is scheduled. What a neat unexpected little bonus detour!

As a matter of fact, it only came out to a quick 20 minute side trip through the park before exiting back onto Bear Creek Road. I continued west up through another canyon, larger and longer than Deer Creek.

Passing a couple small villages, the land around the creek opened into a wider valley by the time I hit the somewhat busier town of Evergreen, with a cool downtown strip of older buildings built onto the steep slope along the road, opposite the creek. Originally founded as a ranching community in the mid 1800s, it now seems to be a popular outdoors getaway destination, nestled away in the mountains like it is.

Motoring up the valley out of Evergreen, Upper Bear Creek Road was quieter and seemed less-traveled. The trees and lusher vegetation crowded in closer to the road along the stream, with the brilliant yellow of turning aspens beginning to accentuate the views.

The valley opened up a bit as I reached the junction with Witter Gulch Road and began to climb more steeply to the northwest through Witter Gulch, with gorgeous views of the nearby ridges and peaks dominating my horizon. More yellow and even some orange-tinged foliage scattered prettily across the slopes. As the road got steeper and curvier, I laughed aloud with delight in finding myself in such a place, on such a road, so close to the big city bustle and traffic of Denver. Colorado is just incredible! I had to pull over at a switchback (carefully!) to try and capture some of the beauty, but the impact is lost in a photograph under bright sunlight. And I hadn’t seen anything yet.

The final series of curves up to the ridgeline were downright silly, they were so precipitous and tight. There was no corner-carving going on here – just keep the bike upright, don’t stall out, and hope you don’t meet another vehicle around one of the blind switchbacks! When I finally made it to the top, at the intersection with CO 103, I found myself at around 9100 feet and my lungs could feel it! I pulled into the trailhead parking right there to take a breather and a couple more photos of the aspens.

Route 103 is the access road to the road ascending Mt. Blue Sky (formerly Evans). In the 2019 IBR, there had been a bonus on the summit that had not fit in with my plans, so I’ve not gotten a chance to ride up there yet. Unfortunately, the summit road is currently closed for a long-term construction project, so my pilgrimage to the highest paved road in the US would have to wait for another trip.

But the ride along 103 is stunning in and of itself, with beautiful mountainscape and forest all around, including majestic views of some of the peaks close to Blue Sky. First I had to get past the pair of mule deer in the road, just after leaving the trailhead lot.

Gradually ascending over Mestaa’ehehe Pass (formerly Squaw) at almost 9800 feet, the riding was superb on fast sweepers through the woods, with few other vehicles on the road. It was about 11:30 when I reached the junction with CO 5, which climbs to the summit of Blue Sky.

Sure enough, the entrance was blocked with construction barriers with active construction activity present, trucks coming and going. I stopped in the lot there for a few minutes to stretch and read an informational kiosk sign, just to feel like I experienced something about this landmark location.

I continued riding 103 past Echo Lake as it looped north, west, then northeast, taking in a few more fun gnarly hairpin curves and enjoying the scenery without stopping. I needed to stay on schedule if I wanted to get in the whole route I’d mapped out before parking the bike for a couple days. I was feeling peckish by now and had budgeted some time to check out a recommended lunch spot in Idaho Springs. It’s a cool little town jammed in tightly along I-70 as it snakes it’s way through a narrow valley amidst the high Rocky Mountains.

The first thing I spotted was this cool retro gas station with a dramatic roof overhang.

The main drag is lined with historic frontier-town architecture, and was closed off for pedestrians only. That clued me in that it probably gets pretty busy around here on the weekends. Right now however, lunchtime around midweek, the town had a relaxed yet anticipatory vibe to it. Locals and tourists ambled around peacefully on a gorgeous day. I found street parking just around the corner next to a couple other motorcycles and walked over to take it in

Tommyknocker Brewery & Pub is right there at the end of the strip, so I didn’t really get a chance to explore the main street all that much. It seems a pretty sizeable joint though mostly empty mid-week. I asked for seating outside under their sidewalk tent and studied the menu a bit, though I’d already reviewed it online this morning.

I ordered a huge draft root beer along with some green chile fries (another local cuisine staple, based on my research) and some fried spinach/cheese empanadas (sounded too good not to try). Hey it’s vacation, sort of. While waiting on my food, I  went inside to wash up and scope out the interior.

The food was delicious, if decidedly unhealthy. I took in the local scene while nibbling, swigging root beer, and protecting my napkins from blowing away in the fairly gusty breezes that kept striking without warning. I also ordered a few cans of their brews (including a green chile lager!) to take along with me and share later on the trip with Charlotte.

The waitress was friendly and didn’t mind chatting, telling me to watch out for the construction delays on I-70 if I was heading east from town. I told her I was, but only  a few miles to head up through Black Hawk. Are there any alternate routes? She said there was always the “crazy road” up the mountain, but upon further questioning agreed that it was not suitable for large street motorcycles. 🤪  Yeah, I’ll take my licks in a bit of traffic.

And so I did. After finishing up lunch and getting back on the bike, I rode down through town to the easternmost on-ramp back onto 70 and got stuck in waiting traffic for a couple miles. There were no shoulders to ride, but I was able to scootch ahead a quarter mile using a service pull-off. In under 10 miles, I veered off interstate again to stick with US 6. Rode through a nice narrow canyon for a mile or so, including a couple of tunnels through the rock, to pick up CO 119 heading back to the northwest through another pretty canyon for several miles.

Black Hawk took me by surprise. Picture a narrow little valley between big mountain slopes in the middle of forested lands with a beautiful creek running through. Then imagine about a mile long strip of huge modern big-as-Vegas casino resort hotels plopped down right in the middle of it all, lining Main Street just across the creek and parallel to the state highway. Holy creepers, but it was surreal! Seeing those huge buildings dwarfing the roads, but dwarfed themselves by the mountains rising all around them. With the busier level of traffic, I neglected to stop to snap a photo, though I’m not sure it could’ve captured the 3D aspect of it all.

Then in the blink of an eye, I was through town and back into the rural mountain scenery, climbing ever higher out of the valley towards Arapaho National Forest. Luckily, I missed my turn onto CO 46, because when I pulled a uey to come back, I realized what a stunning view I’d passed by (it had been behind me coming up the road). So I stopped to get a few shots of what turned out to be the loveliest view of the day. Always look behind you riding in the mountains!

More foliage lined route 46 on my way back to the southeast through Golden Gate Canyon. Just more beautiful riding – I was so happy that I’d decided to get out of that hotel room and explore today! In the final miles of the canyon, I pulled aside to snap a nice overhead shot of the city of Golden, distinctly dominated by the Coors brewery and headquarters.

I wasn’t quite done with the mountains yet, however. Skirting west of town on CO 93 back to US 6, I turned into a residential neighborhood to pick up the steeply climbing Lariat Loop Road up to 7400-foot Lookout Mountain, in Windy Saddle Park. Gaining elevation (and dropping temperature again) quickly via some wonderful curves and tight switchbacks, I shortly arrived at the large but mostly empty parking lots at the top.

There are magnificent views from this little mountain, looking out over the start of the plains below over to Denver and beyond, as well as back west at the Rockies, beckoning for you to come play a bit more. Apparently, this is the site of the grave of William “Buffalo Bill” Cody, along with a state-run museum about him, though I didn’t have time to check that out today. Apparently, millions of people visit this spot each year, so I’m grateful I got to stop by on a weekday late afternoon, with minimal tourist activity.

Alas, this signified the end of my explorations today. It was time to high-tail it into Denver to complete my employment obligations for the week. Enjoying the few final curves down the mountain to I-70, I took the slab several miles east into downtown. Once on the city streets, I scoped out a couple of the public parking lots along my way, since the AirBnB doesn’t include any dedicated parking. There was no way I was going to leave my bike unwatched and unprotected in any of the places that I passed, however, with a bit too much “street activity” to feel comfortable doing that.

I held out hope that I would be able to wheel the bike somehow onto a few square meters of the AirBnB property, which is in the Curtis Park neighborhood. I mean, with a motorcycle, you can always find a spot, right? But the property seemed almost as if it was purposely designed to foil such plans! A narrow gated stairway and foot path led to the front of the house, and the rear faced an ally with locked gates.

Luckily, there is street parking in front of the place and it seems like a relatively quiet and safe residential area. I’ll have to keep an eye on it during the daylight hours since technically there are hourly limits on street parking in the city. Based on online comments, however, it seems to be enforced sporadically once outside of downtown proper, so I’d probably be fine.

The AirBnB was quite nice, a large old house converted into several standalone rentals, including some interior units and a couple with their own doors opening to the private back yard/common area. I had one of the latter. The backyard includes a couple larger trees providing shade, and well-kept paver paths and landscaping, making for a fancy little oasis hidden away from the bustle of the surrounding city. Definitely a treat to stay in a place like this, rather than a big hotel, and conducive to our team meetings since we had all the units booked.

 

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The next day and a half consisted of meeting/relaxing with my team from work, while getting a taste of downtown Denver. That included a couple good meals (Yardbird and Happy Camper were two restaurants we hit) and some froofy cocktails, as well as the chance to take in some of the cool murals painted around town.

Friday was our travel day, back home for everyone else, but the real start of my vacation for the next nine days. I was sober, well-hydrated, and in bed by 22:00 on Thursday night, so as to get started for Texas in a few short hours at oh-dark-thirty.